How do you work?
Generally I do
believe the process
is a two way thing,
so it would be great
of course if you
want to try a
look/outfit that
you’ve always wanted
to, but you're not
sure will work – I
am happy to let you
experiment!
I do have a pretty
laidback, relaxed
and easy going
approach that may
suit new or
inexperienced models
that are seeking
someone sympathetic
to work with.
I do prefer to work
with female models,
and you really must
be over the age of
eighteen.
Assuming it’s a
general portfolio
shoot - when
shooting any model
for the first time,
the ideal process is
to work on portrait,
clothed, lingerie
and ideally some
topless or nude
figure work. These
would be interior
standing and seated
shots with basic
backdrops. Prone
shots can be done on
a bed or floor.
With any model I
will go through a
“pose book” at the
start of a shoot so
we can talk about
what we are going to
do. This isn’t to
try and faithfully
re-create these
images but is simply
a tool help us both
to be clear on what
we’re looking for
-it’s easier to
“discuss” and “point
at” an existing
picture than talk
abstractly about
what we are going to
do. At this point
the general poses
that we think may
suit, the overall
“look”, image and
styles etc can be
planned.
I appreciate that
there seems to
hundred of
euphemisms that are
used for different
styles of
photographic work,
and frequently these
descriptions of
“work types” mean
different things to
different people! I
understand that
there are limits and
boundaries’,
fundamentally; the
basic way I tend to
describe the way I
work, is that it is
intended to be
interesting to me
-although personally
I have no problems
with people finding
the
nude/topless/sheer
work I do “erotic”!
(Blush Blush).
What are your
influences?
Generally my work
has been described
as similar in style
and approach to
Ellen Von Unwerth
and Corinne Day –
both female
photographers, oddly
enough – Also my
stuff has been
likened to Guido
Argentini. –
Certainly those
three names come up
time and time again.
Feel free to do a
Google image search
on those three and
see what you think!
Personally, I don’t
think too much about
it!!!! - but it’s
nice to mentioned in
that company I
suppose!
Nude? Topless?
I do understand the
content of one of my
shoots can be a
“worry” for any new
or inexperienced
model – so although
you might say, “well
he would say this
wouldn’t he?” I have
too much to worry
about in terms of
light, focus etc to
get the slightest
“thrill” from a nude
shoot, and believe
me once you’ve spent
hours processing the
images – you pretty
much get fed up with
the sight of them!
Anyway, at 36 - I’m
too young to be a
dirty old man quite
yet! And no, I don't
"position" models -
that is really only
be necessary at
super high level
shoots where there's
15 odd lights/flash
heads and so the
photographer will
have a really narrow
area of perfect
light balance to
work in, therefore
models get
“positioned” as they
may not be able to
follow the lighting
balance without the
aid of a compass,
protractor and set
of logarithmic
tables!
I do feel that it is
an issue rarely
properly addressed
by photographers–
but in truth I’m
happy to talk about
the issues of
“limits”…From a
models perspective,
it is critical to
remember that in any
shoot what you
“think” is being
shot is not always
what is “actually”
being shot; secondly
the actual final
picture once
processed can again
change markedly –
Don’t get me wrong,
I like to look at a
bit of porn as much
as the next bloke
but I’d just rather
view other peoples
“take” on the
subject!!
So all in all – it’s
about trust and
respect I suppose.
What is your
approach to nude,
topless and other
erotic content?
They key for me
regarding any erotic
stuff I do, is the
“drama” in the
images when any
element of nudity or
eroticism is
involved.
Of course, on the
one hand it’s easy
for me to say that
any nudity/erotic
element is used to
add "drama" rather
than be "tacky
glamour" – but I’m
mindful that it’s an
easy thing for
photographers to say
that! (Yep I can
hear the models of
the world –
breathing in deeply
as a collective
whole an muttering
“yeah, righto mate”
in unison)…. but
what I really need
are either models
that like what I'm
doing – or
professional and
experienced enough
models to understand
what I’m doing with
my work and know I
ain’t going to turn
the shots into porn.
Although (if you
forgive me sounding
like a pretentious
sounding idiot for a
minute!!!) - I do
feel that to produce
“cool stuff” – that
some “nudity” be it
topless or whatever
- is simply one part
of a whole palette a
photographer has to
work with – like a
whole bunch of
paints – sometimes I
use a particular
colour – sometimes I
don’t – but I’d
always want models
to trust me when I’m
shooting. If a model
won’t trust me on
“x”, “y” or “z”
(whether it be
wardrobe, head
position, or an
element or nudity or
eroticism) I don’t
feel they ever get
the best out of a
shoot with me. I
suppose it’s kind of
like being told you
can’t use “green” or
“blue” if you were
painting a picture –
I hope that does
make sense!
It’s not a point I
ever labour with any
model on the day
when we’re working –
all I’d ever say is
just be mindful of
this as I honestly
think models on TFP/TFCD
can lose out… Do
take the time to
look at my portfolio
– hopefully there’s
nothing “tacky” (it
might be rubbish but
not tacky!!!) After
all, if I just
wanted to shoot
“porn” there’s
plenty of adult
content models out
there!!!
So what do you want
to do?
Since starting, my
views and attitudes
towards the
nude/topless content
is always changing –
I love to do
straight
fashion/portrait
work, and much of
any shoot centres
around these areas –
so do bear in mind
that any of the more
“revealing stuff” is
not the entire
content of any shoot
time we agree.
I have been lucky
and seemed to have
got a bit of niche
and a bit of style
going, I’ve found my
services to be
reasonably well in
demand - both
commercial work and
also by models
wanting to add some
of my stuff to their
portfolio (I do turn
down around 70-80%
of the commissions I
get offered – I do
have a proper job
too!). I’d like to
think I have
developed a solid
style and innovative
approach to the
subject – so as far
as my own portfolio
is concerned, I am
keener now to work
with individual
models on a “time
for prints” basis.
That said, the
content of the shoot
still should ideally
mix straight
portrait/fashion and
some topless/nude
work. However, with
any shoot I can
guarantee you ain’t
ever going to end up
looking like some
1980’s “porn
dolly”!!!
I like to keep any
of the more
“revealing” stuff
that I do – “in
context” with the
overall look or
series of images we
are working on at
any given time.
Sooooo all in all –
the greater the
flexibility any
model can offer me –
even for “time for
prints” work – will
in my opinion yield
far better results
across the whole of
the shoot. Finally,
I would add that
around 50% of the
models I work with
have not done
topless or nude work
before – basically I
think because my
take on this subject
is fairly sensitive
and most
importantly,
sympathetic to the
model. The key from
my perspective is to
keep any of the more
revealing stuff
consistent with the
overall look and
feel that we’re
trying to achieve….
and my references
are pretty good – so
feel free to ask
around!
Anyway, ultimately
it’s up to you, I'm
sure we'll have a
giggle and get some
good stuff together.
Any ideas for the
shoot?
At the start of
things in March 2006
I was on a bit of
60’s retro thing – I
still am to some
extent so the eye
make up as well as
general make up is
super important to
me and probably the
only thing I can be
a bit fussy about.
Lately – the work is
more centred on
images with an
“urban” feel.
Prior to a shoot I
generally send out a
guide/information as
to what I need in
terms of make-up
from the model but
don’t worry - just
please do let me
know if you are not
confident with the
application of make
up, etc so I can
prepare and adjust
my approach
accordingly.
I am happy for any
model to choose a
few outfits for the
shoot that they are
comfortable with,
but it’s not
critical – I have
some arrangements
with a London based
clothing wholesaler
and a couple of
second hand clothes
shops – so I tend to
have a pretty decent
wardrobe of items to
work with at any
time.
I have built several
1.8 square metre
timber cloth
backdrops, one tends
to stay matt black –
the others change a
fair bit, I have a
few more solid
backdrops around 1
metre square for
headshots and
“tighter” work.
Again these are
regularly changed,
updated and hand
painted by myself. I
also have cloth
backdrops that I can
use (and are mobile
if I need to visit
you for a shoot).
In addition,
dressing a model up
a “nurse” or a
“police woman” and
lord knows what else
is really not my
scene at all!
Do you supply
wardrobe for your
shoots?
I supply all
wardrobe required
for my shoots– as
companies send me
stuff and I also get
to keep most of the
wardrobe I use the
for pro fashion work
and hair work I do.
I am generally known
for what seems to
get called my “retro
style work (mainly -
60’s London –
70’s/80’s New York
punk/new wave) and
the whole “modern
urban decay” thing….
How much will I get
paid?
With regard to fees,
I can on occasion
pay models myself,
if they have a
certain special
something that will
look amazing in my
portfolio – but this
sort of thing gets
booked up many
months in advance
and has been
decreasing as my own
portfolio has grown
and luckily my work
has proved to be
attractive… at least
to some people!.
In the future there
will be some further
expansion to Design
Zero’s activities
commercially so
there will be much
work that we do
commission ourselves
on our own account.
How long do you
shoot for?
Models are paid for
their “shoot time” –
i.e. time in front
of the camera. For a
Time for Prints
shoot, I can shoot
for up to around 3-4
hours – so you
change outfits lots
of times! This way
we can experiment
with a variety of
looks, make up and
generally be sure of
coming away with an
interesting and
varied portfolio of
work.
I’m new to this!
What do I need to do
to prepare?
In terms of the make
up - most girls will
"arrive" with their
basic foundation etc
on, Eye make up and
lipsticks etc are
normally done by the
model at the shoot
location itself. -
Nothing too heavy -
just stick with what
you know, you like,
and are comfortable
with. I can adjust
the image for any
"shine" so whatever
you do don't make
yourself look like
someone has fired a
shotgun full of
Dulux magnolia paint
at your head.
I will generally
send a quick make up
“guide” as I do like
certain things but
in all honesty - If
in doubt - just go
with you would do
normally.
If you are going to
use coloured lip
gloss (and I’d
rather you didn’t
use a gloss at all)
beware – you need to
check this yourself
and touch it up very
often during the
shoot. Under studio
lighting, if parts
of the gloss rub
off, the photo can
give you the
appearance of having
a “cold sore”, I can
remove this rather
unpleasant effect
during processing,
but it helps me work
quickly if you keep
an eye on this
during the shoot.
Do make sure you
wear loose fitting
clothes in the
morning and for the
journey to me-
airbrushing marks
out of a models skin
where her underwear
has dug in, is a bit
of a pain! Same goes
for watches and
jewellery – anything
that marks the skin
is something to be
careful of. Same
applies to “love
bites” – if your
boyfriend is that
hungry – buy him a
bag of crisps.
Either that or ban
sex completely for
several weeks.
In terms of
piercings, I’m fine
with these wherever
they are and however
many you have,
simple is best –
plain silver where
you can. Personally
I don’t like the
photographic look of
nipple piercings so
please remove these
prior to any shoot.
Now since we’re in
that sort of general
“personal” area –
yes I do get asked a
fair bit about
um…“grooming lady
bits” – to be honest
– being completely
shaved is fine and a
reasonably “safe
bet” if you’re not
into the whole
“topiary thing” but
it doesn’t
photograph that
well. To get the
best results from
nude work you must
be.. (Ahem) pretty
closely cropped -
the “landing strip”
style seems to work
best
photographically.
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